Tuesday, 11 August 2015

Design Journal: Yellow Coat

Hello,

So last week I began draping again - which I find is the best method of designing for me - I had an idea in my head but it turned out into something completely different and I now feel this top idea would be great for a 3rd outfit with trousers. A lot of my work revolves around the use of pleats and avoiding typical darts as well as different directions of stripes, so I started by drawing stripes on calico to see what direction it is going whilst draping. 

My original design was two pleats going into the shoulder, but I felt that would be too bulky, so I turned the smaller pleat into a curved seam that compliments the large pleat. I also wanted the stripe across the front to carrying on around the shoulder, originally I was thinking like a sort of collar, or then I thought possibly it could just button down at the shoulder as a decoration. But eventually I felt it would look best if it was extended and then turned into a bow at the shoulder through a loop - so that I'm carrying on the bow theme throughout my work. I also made the rest of the top less fitted, but looking at the picture below the pattern isn't sitting smooth around the bust so will need some altering as well as a fitting on my model.

I also have been thinking about creating a pleated wraparound skirt for a while now, but I still want it to be full like a half-circle skirt. I toiled it quickly last week and wasn't very happy with the result, so I'm thinking I might just scrap this idea and go with a more simple skirt. My issue is that I want this skirt to be in my pink and yellow stripe without the stripe being ruined by a circle skirt shape. I think this is something I need to make a decision on quick and after that it won't take very long to make up at all. 
Then so far this week I have been working on my finishing my coat so I can finally have a finished 2nd piece. The coat itself has been pretty quick to assemble and only took a couple of hours, but it was the pockets I was nervous about. I haven't really done a welt pocket since my first year of uni so I couldn't remember how to do it - so it took a lot of practicing until I got it right. I'm not necessarily the neatest sewer, but I feel I did a pretty good job considering not having much help. I think the bow pockets add a nice touch.

The coat is almost finished, I just need to sew up and insert the lining. I made a quick trip home to London at the weekend and after a lot of searching was finally able to find a lining that matches my fabric - apparently yellow is never stocked anywhere! I'm pretty happy with how the coat has turned out so far - especially after how many fittings it took to get it to fit my model! I really love the colour but I'm a little uncertain if it goes with my floral dress, but possibly it could go with a different outfit. I'm also going to be doing large self-covered buttons.
Whilst I was in London at the weekend I was trying to find other fabric that could possibly go with the rest of my collection, as well as fabric to go with the top I have toiled. I am possibly thinking the black and white stripe fabric but not quite convinced it fits in with everything quite yet. I am also thinking green/turquoise trousers if I have time. I also picked up a black and white polkadot which I think would look nice with a vivid pink skirt within my lineup.

At the moment my plan for this week is the finish this coat and fully toile two tops and a skirt so they can be fitted on my model. My other idea is that one outfit won't be fitted on my model but made to fit my mannequin instead which could save me a lot of time - but I'm still uncertain at the moment but it is something I need to think about fast. 

Until next time,

Charlotte


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