Wednesday, 19 August 2015

Design Journal: Moving on

So I managed to finish the coat, it took about 2 days to make altogether. I had a few problems with the hem where the stitching was showing through (as seen below), and thankfully the technician was able to help me out. I think I did an okay job of making it, seeing as sewing isn't necessarily my strongest point - I do wish I had undersewn along the inside to stop the lining rolling out. I also a had a few problems with the back and how the heaviness of the pleat pulled down the curve of the raglan, and I ended up resewing it about 4 times despite following the seam allowance perfectly. All that's left now is the buttons, which will be yellow covered ones!

Last week I also began to figure out the pattern for my striped skirt that i've been struggling designing with for a while now. I've been trying to come up with a way to have a full skirt without making it not a square shape - otherwise the stripe would come off the grain - unless I purposely did it as part of a design. So I've been playing around with pleats as a way to add fullness, as well as the idea of stripes going in different directions. I didn't feel that a mirrored skirt was working so I played around with an asymmetric pleat pattern on the front until I came up with something, and I am actually quite pleased with the result. 

The top has been a complete pain and I feel like I've toiled it about 15 different ways and each time I'm unhappy. I think it needs to be a lot less thick, including the pleat across the bust and not so high up on the neck. I've also been contemplating turning the top into a crop top (I know I've toiled it as a crop top but that's so I can get the pleats right before making it longer) - as I love the combination of a matching skirt and crop top, plus looking at all of my research it is something that my customer would love to wear. - not to also mention the recent comments in Oprah Magazine about what body types should or shouldn't wear crop tops - I just feel it's really relevant. But I'm still making a decision.

I also played around with inverted pleats going into each other, but again I feel maybe it's too thick on an already large bust. I'm finding this top really frustrating as I have this idea but it's not necessarily translating how I want it to. With only about 10 days left, I feel a little panicky in terms of finishing this top.
As I'm trying to put together a final line-up at the moment, earlier this week I lined up my 2 made garments, and the fabric for my next garments next to each other to see if it is all flowing. I'm still not quite convinced by the stripe, all I keep thinking when I see it is 'bed sheet'. I'm hoping once it's pressed and made up into a skirt and top I will be much happier with it.

My model, Mary, also came in this week for a fitting. There was only a few adjustments that needed to be made to the top, mainly at the back where everything had to be raised and some volume had to be taken out of the shoulders and put into the hem. I'm hoping to have this top fully made up in final fabric by the end of the week now that the adjustments have been made. The skirt also fitted well (the flappy bit is just where I added fabric for adjustments) - It needs to be made a little bit bigger as I draped the skirt on my mannequin which is a bit smaller than Mary. I really like the length and the shape, and it's good to see it on a person instead of a mannequin. I'm also hoping to begin making this skirt by the end of this week too if possible - then hopefully use next week to focus on the remaining top.

Feeling a bit anxious but trying to keep on top of the making and paperwork at the same time. I think it's going to be a tight deadline, and I really wanted to make some trousers too but unfortunately not going to have time.

Until next time,



  1. You go, Charlotte! CROP TOPS 5EVER! You're killing it, can't wait to see the final product!

  2. that coat! Stunning. Good luck with everything!!